Simple Centrifuge
Clean waste vegetable oil (WVO), bio diesel, lube oils, and even hydraulic oil in your garage
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Photo Gallery - This gallery represents the work over several years. Some designs have been replaced and/or updated as time progressed. Most images contain a date stamp visable on the large version. Please note the date when viewing. We are always experimenting with new concepts and designs. If you have any questions about any photo please contact us.
Total photos in gallery 1280 - Latest photo update 2016/07/11 12:37:36
Asterisk(*) indicates new photos in the past 30 days
Adapter 56C to 56J ( 15 )
Algae Recovery ( 42 )
Bacterial fermentation ( 1 )
Balancer Mandrels ( 8 )
Bearing replacement ( 25 )
Botry Culture ( 2 )
Building a gantry ( 16 )
Chestnut Extract ( 9 )
CNC Coolant ( 6 )
Coconut Oil ( 8 )
Construction ( 43 )
Contaminated diesel ( 2 )
Craig's Machine ( 31 )
Cross Drill End Bell ( 10 )
Crude oil ( 5 )
Custom motor shaft ( 23 )
Experimental Motor ( 19 )
Explosion proof motor ( 3 )
Feed Cone ( 29 )
Feed Cone with Fins ( 6 )
Feed Tube ( 3 )
Filter Paper ( 7 )
Ford on WMO ( 2 )
Foundry ( 5 )
Foundry 2 ( 18 )
Gear pump ( 2 )
Grinding fluid ( 19 )
Grinding fluid 2 ( 14 )
Heaters ( 9 )
History ( 11 )
Homemade Diesel ( 7 )
Homemade diesel 2 ( 41 )
Homemade Diesel 3 ( 15 )
Homemade Diesel 4 ( 12 )
How it works ( 3 )
Hydraulic Oil ( 3 )
Keyless Bushing ( 11 )
Lab Centrifuge ( 16 )
Lab Centrifuge 2 ( 18 )
Lapidary Cutting Oil ( 2 )
Lock motor shaft ( 6 )
Magnesol removal ( 6 )
Microwave heater ( 7 )
Misc. Mods ( 4 )
Mitsubishi 4x4 on WMO ( 10 )
New Feed Cone ( 16 )
New Feed Tube ( 7 )
New Rotor 2013 ( 24 )
New rotor design ( 16 )
Oil and Contaminants ( 42 )
Oil Skimmer ( 8 )
Our Shop ( 37 )
Peristaltic Pump ( 29 )
Powder Coating ( 10 )
Renderings ( 8 )
Retrofit rotor for WVOD ( 17 )
Rework Mount ( 10 )
Rotor fins ( 34 )
Rotor Fins One Piece ( 6 )
Seal ( 6 )
Sea Weed ( 4 )
Sediment removal ( 16 )
See thru lid - Building ( 16 )
See thru lid - Testing ( 28 )
Skim Tube ( 56 )
Skim Tube for VCO ( 8 )
Small Settling Tank ( 14 )
Tanks ( 9 )
Tanks - Complete System ( 13 )
Tap drain ( 10 )
Testing Seal Screws ( 6 )
Tests by fuelfarmer ( 22 )
Turn key machine ( 38 )
Two part rotor ( 30 )
Ultrasonic filter cleaning ( 8 )
Updates ( 26 )
Users Machines ( 34 )
Vacuum pickup ( 3 )
VW on WMO ( 7 )
Water-Oil Seperator ( 7 )
Water trap ( 5 )
Wine Clarification ( 4 )
WVO Heat Tests ( 7 )
WVO Pump ( 6 )
WVO Tests ( 14 )
Heaters
There are numerous methods to heat your oil, solar, band heaters, inline, or water heater. We have tried them all. The water heater has worked the best by far. We're currently using 2.5 gallon heaters, their economical to run and create an important low spot in our feed line to help separate free water. We have also found that the centrifuge body gets warmer using the water heater than other methods which ensures the lowest viscosity oil going through the centrifuge.
A lot of people ask about inline heaters, so I built this one. It uses a 500 watt cartridge heater, a 180 degree dryer thermostat and a block of aluminum. It heats right up. Works as designed. After running for a while a few notable problems, no place for water to settle or escape and it doesn't heat the oil enough. The centrifuge never warms up. Looks nice but it doesn't work! This is the setup for the inline heater. Not recommended. This is the current setup using a 2.5 gallon water heater. The oil enters on the cold side and exits the hot side. The exit is plumbed to a T with a length extending higher than the centrifuge (or feed tank). This allows water vapor to escape. Be careful not to turn up the thermostat too high or the safety valve will open, note the bucket just in case.
A lot of people ask about inline heaters, so I built this one. It uses a 500 watt cartridge heater, a 180 degree dryer thermostat and a block of aluminum. It heats right up. Works as designed. After running for a while a few notable problems, no place for water to settle or escape and it doesn't heat the oil enough. The centrifuge never warms up. Looks nice but it doesn't work! This is the setup for the inline heater. Not recommended. This is the current setup using a 2.5 gallon water heater. The oil enters on the cold side and exits the hot side. The exit is plumbed to a T with a length extending higher than the centrifuge (or feed tank). This allows water vapor to escape. Be careful not to turn up the thermostat too high or the safety valve will open, note the bucket just in case.
The heater provides a great place for the water to settle out of the process. The water should be drained off as needed. I generally drain about a quart or so. It's best done when hot, so be careful. This shows my water trap ahead of the gear pump. The first filter housing is empty, no filter element, this creates a low spot in the line for large chunks and water to get captured. The second filter housing has a paper element and protects the pump from too much junk. I typically drain water from these traps each day. Water that makes it past the traps will settle in the heater, where it is drained. Any remaining water will be captured by the centrifuge. Basic heater and centrifuge setup.
The heater provides a great place for the water to settle out of the process. The water should be drained off as needed. I generally drain about a quart or so. It's best done when hot, so be careful. This shows my water trap ahead of the gear pump. The first filter housing is empty, no filter element, this creates a low spot in the line for large chunks and water to get captured. The second filter housing has a paper element and protects the pump from too much junk. I typically drain water from these traps each day. Water that makes it past the traps will settle in the heater, where it is drained. Any remaining water will be captured by the centrifuge. Basic heater and centrifuge setup.
Feed control valve and bypass valve. The bypass can be uncapped and opened to test the flow rate to the centrifuge. Plumbing of the heater. Cold oil enters on the Cold side and oil exits Hot. The Relief Valve has been removed and replace with a vent line. The heater runs at ambient pressure. The vent line must extend higher than the top of the source tank. The plastic water drain valve has been replaced with pipe and a ball valve. We drain water off the heater daily.
Feed control valve and bypass valve. The bypass can be uncapped and opened to test the flow rate to the centrifuge. Plumbing of the heater. Cold oil enters on the Cold side and oil exits Hot. The Relief Valve has been removed and replace with a vent line. The heater runs at ambient pressure. The vent line must extend higher than the top of the source tank. The plastic water drain valve has been replaced with pipe and a ball valve. We drain water off the heater daily.
Numeric Control, LLC
PO Box 916
Morton, WA 98356